Weekend Arts: Exploring the Hot Spring Town of Botchan and Spirited Away - Matsuyama City, Ehime, Japan

Taipei has a "Songshan District," while on Shikoku Island in Japan's Ehime Prefecture, there is a "Matsuyama City," 46 times the area of Taipei's Songshan District. As the seat of the Ehime Prefectural government and the most populous city in Shikoku, Matsuyama City's tourism appeal is boundless: hot springs, castles, literature, historical sites, ancient temples, and more - exploring at a leisurely pace makes for an endlessly delightful journey.

The spectacular "Hachiai" (shrine-crashing) event taking place on the morning of October 7.

Two teams approaching each other, the intense "fighting shrine" confrontation about to erupt.

The courtyard of Dogo Onsen annex "Asuka-no-Yu" features an installation art composed of approximately 230 flower photographs by photographer Mika Ninagawa on the ground of the courtyard plaza.

Upon arriving in Matsuyama City, amid the streets filled with Japanese hiragana and katakana, one frequently spots the characters for "Matsuyama," creating a warm sense of "meeting your hometown in a foreign land." Matsuyama City historically prospered as a castle town around Matsuyama Castle, and naturally, the castle is the foremost tourist destination when visiting.

The "Botchan Karakuri Clock" performs once every hour, with characters from the novel "Botchan" appearing one by one to music - very entertaining.

Matsuyama Castle: One of Japan's Top 100 Castles

"100 Colors no.42" by France-born Japan-based designer Emmanuelle Moureaux adds bright and gorgeous colors to the Dogo Shopping Street.

Selected for 2 stars in the Michelin Green Guide Japan, Matsuyama Castle was first built by castle lord Kato Yoshiaki in 1627. Through the long years, it endured fires, wartime destruction, and multiple reconstructions. It is currently one of only 12 surviving "tenshu" (castle towers) built before the Edo period in Japan. Over 20 structures including turrets, gates, and the main tower are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.

"Dogo Onsen Honkan" is currently undergoing late-stage preservation and repair work but remains open for business - you can still go in and enjoy the hot springs.

Matsuyama Castle stands majestically on Mount Katsuyama. After taking the ropeway to the mountaintop, it's still about a 15-minute walk to reach the castle. Along with Himeji Castle and Wakayama Castle, it is known as one of "Japan's 3 Great Hilltop Castles with Connected Towers." Compared to the slender-topped design of other Japanese castles, Matsuyama Castle's main tower appears broad and imposing. Under the autumn blue sky, the more you look, the more magnificent it seems.

"Bansuiso" was the villa of Count Hisamatsu Sadanori, a descendant of the former Matsuyama feudal lords. It features multiple stained glass windows, including this piece by the renowned artist Kiuchi Shintaro.

Beyond taking beautiful photos of the castle exterior, you can buy a ticket to tour the castle interior, where a historical exhibition details the changes Matsuyama Castle underwent through different eras, full sets of armor used in past battles, samurai swords, and more. Originally, Matsuyama Castle was also known as "Golden Turtle Castle" and "Katsuyama Castle" - the names derive from the fact that when the castle was built on Mount Katsuyama, there was still a deep abyss at the inner moat at the foot of the mountain, and legend has it that a golden turtle lived there. If simply viewing exhibits feels too passive, there's also a self-service armor-wearing experience area where visitors can follow wall diagrams to don full armor, try holding a matchlock gun to experience how the castle was defended in the past, and feel the weight of a real samurai sword - these fun experiences had adults enjoying themselves even more than the children!

Through the glass window, the nearby "Bansuiso" is cleverly borrowed as a scenic backdrop garden.

From Hokkaido to Okinawa, castles are preserved in almost every region. Castles are a distinctive part of Japanese history and culture, and each castle's historical context and architectural style has its own research value and charm, forming a unique field of "Castle Studies" in Japan. As a foreign traveler, even if just visiting briefly, it's worth exploring every corner of Matsuyama Castle. When you climb to the main tower at 132 meters elevation and gaze down at Matsuyama City, the Ishizuchi mountain range, and the Seto Inland Sea from the windows on all sides, while marveling at the magnificent panoramic view, you can almost feel the commanding presence of the ancient castle lords who once surveyed their domain from here.

The slope from the 3rd to 4th floor features a newspaper wall of "Clouds Above the Slope" serialized in the Sankei Shimbun from 1968 to 1972.

The Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum: Core of the Literary City Vision

This aerial staircase is the eye-catching design of the "Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum."

While Matsuyama Castle witnessed the city's glorious past, the "Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum" (Clouds Above the Slope Museum), designed by renowned architect Ando Tadao, represents the core facility of modern Matsuyama's urban development. Since its opening in 2007, it has attracted countless visitors every year.

Ando Tadao hoped visitors would experience the exhibition halls connected by triangular slopes as if strolling through a circuit-style garden.

The museum takes its name from Shiba Ryotaro's (1923-1996) epic novel "Saka no Ue no Kumo" (Clouds Above the Slope). The novel centers on Masaoka Shiki (1867-1902), born in Matsuyama, and the brothers Akiyama Yoshifuru (1859-1930) and Akiyama Saneyuki (1868-1918), depicting the ambitious spirit of many who strived to build Japan into a modern nation during the Meiji era. Since the three protagonists left numerous footprints in Matsuyama, the city hoped to revitalize these related resources and transform Matsuyama into "a museum without a roof," and thus the Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum was born.

The "Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum," designed by renowned architect Ando Tadao, is a triangular building.

The four-story museum is located at the boundary between Shiroyama Park and the city center, on a triangular site. Regarding his design for this museum, Ando Tadao stated that he hoped visitors would experience the exhibition halls connected by triangular slopes as if strolling through a circuit-style garden. Under his ingenious design, visitors can indeed follow the gentle slopes to explore each floor's exhibition hall, while experiencing different scenery at every turn. When light plays its magic in various corners of each floor, it further enhances the ineffable spatial beauty of the triangular floors. The double-height aerial staircase, slopes, and corridors all become focal points of admiration and popular photo spots.

Matsuyama Castle includes over 20 structures such as turrets, gates, and the main tower, all designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan. The "Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum" is a triangular building.

As the museum is dedicated to "Clouds Above the Slope," upon entering, you immediately see a book stand on the left filled with copies of the novel. Nearly all the exhibitions inside are related to the book: introducing the three protagonists' lives, the slope from the 3rd to 4th floor featuring a newspaper wall of the novel's serialization in the Sankei Shimbun from 1968 to 1972, and a special exhibition on the 4th floor marking the 50th anniversary of the novel's conclusion.

Inside Matsuyama Castle, armor and equipment from the past are currently on display. This set of ornate helmet and lacquered armor was reportedly used by castle lord Kato Yoshiaki.

To escape from "Clouds Above the Slope," head to the seating area outside the 4th floor exhibition hall, where panoramic glass windows cleverly borrow the view of the nearby "Bansuiso" as a backdrop garden. This elegant French-style Western building was constructed in 1922 and is the oldest reinforced concrete structure in Ehime Prefecture. It was once the villa of Count Hisamatsu Sadanori, a descendant of the former Matsuyama feudal lords, and served as a social gathering place for notable figures of the time. The exterior features Neo-Renaissance architecture, yet the left and right sides are asymmetrical, expressing the Japanese aesthetic of "asymmetrical beauty." Inside, there are Rococo furniture, stained glass, a marble fireplace topped with a large Belgian-made mirror, and more. It has been designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan and is open to visitors with a ticket.

Gazing out over Matsuyama City and the surrounding scenery from the heights is truly refreshing.

Japan's Oldest Hot Spring: Dogo Onsen

The towering stone walls of Matsuyama Castle spread out like a fan, presenting magnificent curved lines crafted from stacked stones.

Matsuyama Castle (also known as Ishite Castle) is located in Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture, in the Shikoku region of Japan. It is a historic Japanese castle, and its towering stone walls are among its most famous features. Here is some information about the towering stone walls of Matsuyama Castle:

History of the Stone Walls: Construction of Matsuyama Castle's stone walls began in the early 17th century, originally ordered by the second lord of the Matsuyama domain, Matsudaira Tadayoshi. The castle underwent multiple renovations and repairs over time to strengthen its defensive capabilities. The stone walls are one of the castle's primary fortifications.

Towering Features: Matsuyama Castle's stone walls are remarkably tall, creating a spectacular castle exterior. Built from large stacked stones, they form the castle's outer walls. These stone walls served not only defensive purposes but also gave the castle its magnificent appearance.

Protection and Maintenance: Matsuyama Castle and its stone walls have been designated as National Treasures and receive special protection. Maintenance of the castle and stone walls is essential to preserving this important historical heritage. Restoration requires professional expertise and funding to ensure their preservation.

Tourism and Sightseeing: Matsuyama Castle is a popular tourist attraction drawing many visitors. Tourists can admire the towering stone walls surrounding the castle while also visiting the on-site historical museum and exhibitions to learn more about the castle and local history.

In summary, the towering stone walls of Matsuyama Castle are among its most striking features, offering visitors the opportunity to explore history and Japanese culture. This castle represents Japan's rich historical and architectural heritage.

Matsuyama City proudly promotes itself as "the city of hot springs, castles, and literature." The local pride is "Dogo Onsen," and the "Dogo Onsen Honkan" in the hot spring district has appeared in ancient texts such as "Manyoshu" and "Kojiki." Prince Shotoku, a 6th-century royal politician who was once depicted on the 10,000-yen banknote, visited here. In modern times, the great literary master Natsume Soseki wrote about it in his beloved novel "Botchan," and it served as a location inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki's animated film "Spirited Away." With so many accolades, visitors soaking here are immersing not just in body-and-soul-healing hot springs, but in springs that have written history.

Strolling through the Dogo Onsen area in a yukata and flip-flops is a wonderful experience: visiting the four power spots known as Dogo's Four Great Spiritual Sites - Enmanji Temple, Isaniwa Shrine, Yu Shrine & Nakajima Shrine, and Yugama Yakushi; lingering at the Meiji-era atmosphere Dogo Onsen Station for Instagram-worthy photos; shopping endlessly at the Dogo Shopping Street filled with Ehime Prefecture specialties. When tired, enjoy a relaxing foot bath at the Hojoen foot-soaking pool, and when the hour strikes, the nearby "Botchan Karakuri Clock" comes to life, with characters from "Botchan" appearing one by one to flowing music - so lively and entertaining!

The seemingly relaxed and leisurely Dogo Onsen area holds an electrifying autumn grand festival every year from October 5-7. On October 7, the "Hachiai" (shrine-crashing) event, known as the "fighting shrine" festival, takes place. Teams are divided into pairs for head-to-head battles, with each team of about 100 to 200 members carrying their mikoshi to the plaza in front of Iyotetsu Dogo Onsen Station for the shrine-crashing ritual. The spectacular scene of up to 400 participants, with teams taunting each other, violently crashing together, and even breaking into group scuffles, is heart-pounding to watch!

You can witness this amazing event in Taipei too! Of the 7 teams that participated in this year's "Hachiai" event, 4 teams will come to Taiwan: the Dogo Village Grand Mikoshi Association, the Mochida United Grand Mikoshi Association, the Kita Kokarajin Grand Mikoshi Federation, and the Kokarajin Grand Mikoshi, to participate in the "2023 Taipei Hot Spring Festival" from November 1-6. At that time, Taiwanese audiences can experience the authentic Dogo shrine-crashing festival during the Hot Spring Festival.

News Source: Liberty Times Text & Photography / Reporter Chou Hsing-Jui